29 May 2008

school's out for summer

I went to dinner last night with a small group of teachers from Battisti. We ate at the pizzeria of Amalia's cousin, outside along the lungolago of Manerba. It was a great time and gave me a chance to reflect on my experiences here in Salò. And for all the times I've been annoyed with high school students or frustrated with general Italian disorganization, I've really had a wonderful time here and wouldn't trade this experience for anything.

We talked about politics, Italian and American, traveling, the ridiculous cost of concert tickets, Oregon, school, books, Italian culture and history, my future, and of course the bureaucracy of la vita italiana, and what this means for the state-mandated final exams next week, something that neither I nor Nicoletta understood nor did we care to. Amalia gave me a shirt and an interesting book to read. Here I am with Ilario and Nicoletta.

My time here has been vastly different than my experiences studying abroad. I have learned so much more about the language and culture this time around. There were no guided tours. No Italian lessons. And no one was watching over me and holding my hand. I prefer it this way. Of course, it helps living with two Italians and spending all of your time with locals, all of whom have been very friendly and helpful whenever I've needed anything. I've had to figure out a lot on my own but nothing has been too difficult or overwhelming.

Tomorrow is my last day and I am absolutely ready to finish my teaching stint, but I will also miss it as well.

I've learned:
  • Teaching is not my future profession, especially not high schoolers. But the thing I most enjoyed about teaching was being able to work one-on-one or in small groups with students who were really motivated and cared about learning and speaking English. Helping several students prepare for a specialized English exam earlier this year was very rewarding.
  • Italian high school is extremely different from American. Part of it is cultural, and part is the educational system. Culturally, life is more relaxed, and things just seem to move at a slower pace. Thus, school life is more casual. Students go to the bathroom more frequently than imaginable or are late to class with no real reprimanding. Teachers are late. Students are more disrespectful. Teachers seem to yell more, but that's because classes are often rowdy. In fact, the discipline system is virtually non-existent as far as I can tell. Warnings and threats of punishment often fly but are never enforced. There's always a sense of general disorganization present.
  • Italia has problems. Societal, governmental, financial... but that's not so different than any other modern nation. Still, it is a country that tends to live upon it's past reputation without planning or making changes for the future. And a lot of the world views Italia as a tourist attraction, vacation destination, or culinary heaven. But it is also changing culturally with an influx of immigrants from the Eastern Europe and Africa.
  • Italians are generally very friendly, helpful people. They will welcome you into their social culture. Family is important, so are friends. There's often a strong sense of community and traditional Italian culture shines through these relationships, which often involve food and drink as well. They love to talk, hopefully while drinking a caffè or an aperitivo at the bar.
I came back to Italia so I could speak and learn more of the language I studied for several years and minored in at university. So I could experience another culture in a way that I wasn't able to when I studied abroad. Although, I must admit that having some advance knowledge and experience in Italia did facilitate my adjustment, making it quite smooth.

It is interesting to learn a language like Italian, which is literally only spoken and used within the borders of this country. Thus, any Italian musicians, artists, writers, athletes, journalists, etc. are well-known by virtually the entire nation.

It's amazing when an entire nation knows a traditional song from 50 or a 100 years ago and can sing along with it word-for-word. The sense of culture is very strong, whether it's Italian, (although my roommates say the only time Italia is truly united as a nation is when the national team is playing) or a strong sense of pride in where you come from, whether that be region, province, city, or even neighborhood.

I know I will never be able to speak like a native, with the myriad of dialects, accents, and cultural idiosyncrasies that I may never understand. But I am proud of my current ability. I accomplished what I set out to do: be able to communicate in my everyday life without worry or hesitation. I'm able to have conversations and understand everything that's going on around me.

Just don't make me ask some old nonno who speaks in a raspy dialect for directions.

20 May 2008

indiana jones e il regno del teschio di cristallo

I am so damn excited for this!!! It comes out Friday here and I'm going.
I've been prepping myself with a marathon of the originals. The only thing I'm wary about is Indy's new sidekick, Henry "Mutt" Williams, a motorcycle-riding greaser.

No arrogant, wise-crack quipping smart ass could ever take the place of my dear, precious Short Round. There will always be a special place in my heart for that little rascal.

Just a few more days now.

18 May 2008

colazione americana

This morning I made my roommates a true American breakfast... well it wasn't quite eggs, hashbrowns, and piles of sausage links with crispy bacon. I thought I'd ease them in a bit, because I wasn't even sure how maple syrup would be received.

We made pancakes (from the mix Ashly sent me for my birthday) topped with Mrs. Butterworth's. We also had a fruit salad with fresh strawberries, bananas, and kiwi to eat on the side or on top. Still the closest thing they'd ever had before was a crêpe.

They really enjoyed it and like the marionberry jam my parents brought from Oregon. We determined that there is no word for marionberry in Italian but that it's not too different from a mora, which would be something like our wild blackberry. Adesso sono bello pieno.

16 May 2008

il grande viaggio dell'europa del sud-est

I just realized yesterday that school is finished in 2 short weeks. I can't believe it. The time has flown by. But lately I've been spending countless hours planning my immense and intense summer vacation through South Eastern Europe. Click on the map to follow our route.

I am unbelievably excited for the beautiful places I will see... more than any city, church, mosque, monument, museum, ruin, statue, or archaeological site, I am thrilled for the amazing beauty of the places I will be experiencing. Oh yeah, and of course the local food, wine and beer as well. I have big plans for activities outdoors in the mountains and rivers or on the beaches and in the ocean. I will let you in on the adventures once they happen.

But before I get ahead of myself, I have a spectacular 10 days planned in Sardegna with Nick and Kris in the beginning of June. Andiamo ragazzi!!!

12 May 2008

la settimana dei miei

My parents were just here in Italia, and we packed in a good week of food, travel, and visiting friends, which also normally involved eating.

They arrived last Monday evening in Salò where I got them settled into an apartment I rented just off the lungolago. On Tuesday morning they came to school, met some of the teachers and one of my classes. We spent the afternoon around the lake in Salò and ate dinner at a nice, traditional trattoria, which turned out to be owned by the father of one of my students. They served us huge portions of Garda cuisine, local vino, and an extra focaccia on the house.

Wednesday we toured Verona, spending our time lounging in piazzas eating well and drinking aperitivi in between the sites. On the way home we stopped in San Felice to eat paninis along the Garda lakeside.

Thursday was il Vittoriale the house and garden of Garda's poet, war hero, writer, and eccentric personage Gabriele d'Annunzio. Needless to say, he was crazy and his home and lifestyle keep this legacy intact. From the reconstructed boat in the garden to the thousands of religious trinkets from all over the world inside to his "personalization" or manipulation of famous pieces of artwork... it was an odd experience. We ate a picnic in Gardone Riviera and spent the rest of the day by the lake in Gargnano with dinner by the lake in Salò.

Friday we headed to Parma, wandered town and my friend Johnny took us to Tri Siochett, an authentic restaurant outside of town in the middle of nowhere. He proceeded to get lost for about a half hour while we crossed the same bridge about 4 times.

When we arrived, we ate way too much delicious Parmigiano food from prosciutto di Parma and other varieties of salami and ham, to pastas filled with creamy, buttery herbs and cheeses, to horse steaks and eggplant parmigiano and numerous preparations of beef... the food was so amazing that it was oppressive because there was simply just too much.


Johnny and I went out after dropping my parents at the hotel, and we couldn't even finish a drink because we were so full. But the bravi Sardi (Marco e Marco) made us stick around. Around 3 AM or so when we thought we were just dropping them off, they literally drug Johnny out of the car and pushed us inside feeding us bright pinkish-red cured fish eggs (basically the entire feminine organ) on flatbread with olive oil and pepper. Interesting but good. And after busting out the vino and guitar, it looked like this at 6 AM as we stumbled down the street to Johnny's apartment.

Saturday night my parents and I returned to Salò, and the family whose kids I have been tutoring had us over for dinner. We ate with Virginia, Alberto and the kids Alessio, Matteo, and Gioia, and my dad finally got his sample of grappa.


Sunday was our amazing drive in the hills above Lago di Garda with the absolutely beautiful and untouched Val Valvestino and its lake and the following lakes and small villages around Lago d'Idro and Lago di Ledro.


In Idro we found the most amazing market I've ever seen. The kind that offers all-you-can-eat free samples of fresh baked bread from focaccia with cherry tomatoes or rosemary to fruit filled croissants and other local breads and sweet cakes. The market was in conjunction with the local elementary school, and the kids were there learning how to make bread. A woman told me this was the first time they'd ever done it, and she hoped that this initial experiment would lead to a weekly or monthly market. I'd definitely return just for the bread samples, who cares about the ridiculously gorgeous lake and scenery around. It was like Costco times a billion.


After entering Trentino-Alto Adige in the north and eating paninis, we eventually came down from the hills through a series of extremely long tunnels and followed the lakeside road to Limone sul Garda. We strolled the lungolago while navigating between the masses of German tourists (just like all over Lago di Garda).

And last night a large table of friends and dinner awaited us in the hills above Gardone Riviera overlooking the lights of Garda. After a walk by the lake today, my parents left this afternoon for Amsterdam before catching their flight back to PDX tomorrow.

I ate way too much and I am exhausted just thinking about it. It feels like I ate more this last week than I have in my entire duration here in Italia... and that includes studying abroad 3 years ago.

I'm fasting until Sardegna. Or performing some other kind of miracle.

04 May 2008

sono britney, stronza

Summer is finally here with gorgeous weather, hot temperatures, and time in the sun by the lake. My parents arrive tomorrow. And you know, just when I thought things were goin' great in Italia... this happened:

01 May 2008

feste, ferie, e ponte

The good ole' holiday season is finally coming to a close here in Italia. After a few days off for elections in mid-April and the Festa della liberazione last week on April 25th (celebrating Italia's liberation from German occupation and fascism in 1945 during WWII), we now have today's Festa dei lavoratori (Labor Day).

We celebrated last night with a huge dinner at our house for friends and by drinking copious amounts of vino and of course party poppers from my birthday package that FINALLY arrived... thanks Ash. Lorella's sister and cousin from Milano surprised us in the middle of dinner.

Today the weather was abbastanza bello and we spent the afternoon by the lake in San Felice eating paninis and potato chips. Che belle feste.


I guess the vacation time isn't quite over for me though... seeing as my parents arrive on Monday, I'll be working another short week at school. Va bene, I'll make it up later.